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Articles & Gallery is proud to announce that we will feature monthly articles on the subject of hair extensions by the internationally acclaimed demonstrator and noted author  …………….TORAIN the Black Dragon.

He is the president of FUSION hair extensions and is known as the artist that introduced the adhesive hair extensions to the main stream.

From: Torain

Re: Article

Title: pre glued hair extensions ( pros and cons )


There is a current trend in adhesive hair extensions that is based on the practice of buying the hair with glue already on the ends of the hair extensions.

Although there are numerous companies that are producing this product, it is not the practice of mainstream importers of hair that are involved for the most part.

Consequently the hair is not sold by the established accepted guidelines of the hair industry.

For instance, this hair is not sold in the standard packages of four ounces, but rather by individual pre glued pieces that frequently sell for around $3.00 each. Since a full head of adhesive hair extensions commonly take at least one and a half packs to two packs of hair and often exceeds that amount. It is conceivable that the average head of adhesive hair extensions could need as many as three hundred of these plugs to give the appearance of fullness, which is often the major reason for doing the process.  Even half of that amount would come to about $450.00 just for the hair. The price of the service would have to be added to this and would come to an enormous sum of money that the average customer would not be able to afford. As a result those professionals that use this technique would make less money and would have a much smaller clientele base, that is willing to pay so much. In instances where this product is being sold by the weight, prices are frequently ninety dollars for a single ounce, which means that the four ounces ( which is standard weight for a package of hair ), would sell for as much as three hundred sixty dollars.

Even if the pieces of pre glued hair were sold to the hair designer at one dollar and half each, they would still represent an exorbitant amount when compared with the price of hair that is sold by the bundle. This is especially true of the black clientele, who are still the most prolific of all the ethnic groups that are wearing hair extensions. They are also the most experienced and knowledgeable regarding hair extensions and they all know where to buy hair at moderate prices. In addition to this they usually buy shorter hair

( around ten, twelve or fourteen inches ) which can be acquired in the standard four ounce packages of the established hair companies for fifteen to thirty dollars at almost any of the numerous beauty supply stores that are located everywhere throughout our nation.

It is close to impossible to acquire these pre glued hair pieces in anything shorter than eighteen inches and often they can not be had in the longer lengths of twenty two, twenty four or longer, which is frequently what the clients may desire. 

Textures are extremely limited. The pre glued hair extension pieces are almost never fabricated in the various Yaky textures that are the almost exclusive preference of the black hairdressers and customers. In fact, the textures that are prevalent in the pre glued hair is a rather vague, irregular wave that can not compare to the various smooth, consistent waves and curl patterns that are easily obtainable at the local hair and wig stores. Extremely curly textures, like the corkscrew is non existent. They in no way compare to the body wave, or exciting curl patterns that have been developed by the leading manufacturers of Asia. 

Most hair-designers say that there is too much glue on the hair and it is always necessary to cut off some of it before attaching the strands to the natural hair. 

Another glaring shortcoming of the pre glued hair is that they are extremely limited in colors. Often the company that makes and sells these hairs do not use the excepted colors of the established hair trade such as #22, # 27 or  #4, instead they use words to describe the colors, Autumn Sunset or Titian red. This makes it almost impossible for the average stylist or client to order the proper color. Color blends like #18/22 and 27/613 are virtually non existent. While the packaged hair that has been in use for some time has a dazzling variety of mixed color combinations that are exciting and dramatic innovations in hair designs that are greatly appreciated by the clients and hairstylists.

Although there are some stores that carry this type of pre glued hair, it is by far the companies that produce them who gain their customers from the hair shows and insist that they order directly from them. This means a wait of about at least a week or more, whereas the convenience of buying it at a local hair store can not be denied. Then when it does arrive, there is sometimes a question of color, texture and length. In the case of a discrepancy it would be some time before it could be straightened out, not like merely going back to the store where it was bought and dealing with people that you are familiar with.

In order to attach this pre glued hair to the natural hair it is necessary to purchase a special tool that somewhat resembles a pair of pliers, which is electrically heated to melt the adhesive at the tips of the commercial hair to the strands of natural hair. These tools sell for about one hundred thirty nine dollars.

Removal of the pre adhesive hair extensions can be achieved only by using acetone ( nail polish remover ). Although I personally have never seen any direct negative result from the use of acetone on the hair it can work a terrible hardship on the scalp. It can burn the scalp badly and leave nasty chemical burns. Particularly on black people whose scalp does not secrete a substantial amount of sebum to protect the skin. It is also flammable and caution must be used when applying it during the removal process. Most hair designers believe that it is damaging to the hair and are not at all willing to use it.


Where did the concept of pre glued hair strands originate?


The idea of pre glued tipped hair is not by any means a new one. It has been in practice since the individually attached adhesive hair extensions were conceived.

The best way to buy hair for doing adhesive hair extensions is to buy hair that is on the weft. This is because it is practical to save whatever hair is left after the procedure has been completed. When it is attached to a weft the artist will simply toss it into the box or bag where extra hair is collected until such time as it well be needed and can be used, as opposed to the loose hairs that will not be quite so easy to save for future use.

Persons that like the pre glued technique of applying hair extensions will simply use the Adhesive dipper. This instrument is used to heat the adhesive. After cutting a small cluster of Hairs from the weft, the ends are dipped into a small, electronically heated pot that is referred to as a “Dipper”. This tool is very inexpensive and can melt down the same adhesive that goes into the glue gun within a minute (  about the same time that it would take to melt inside the gun). Once the solid sticks of adhesive ( or economic bits of adhesive has melted down to a liquid state, the ends of the hair is dipped into the glue and set aside on a rubber non stick pad ( called a “Work Pad” ) or coated wax paper that will allow the glue to harden without sticking to the surface. This can be done in a single color or combination of colors that may be new bundles of hair or as is the case most frequently, a number of left over shades from earlier jobs. A single extension can be a collage of two, three or even four colors.

This job can be assigned to anyone in the shop ( an inexperienced apprentice, a receptionist or a clean up person that has no cosmetology skills whatever ). The prepared extension pieces are then ready for the customer’s visit whether it is the next day, a week later or several months in the future.

When the patron is ready for the hair extensions, the hair designer can simply place the pre tipped hair extension strands beneath the natural hair at the root and then place the cone shaped steal nozzle of the gun directly beneath the adhesive at the tips of the prepared hair. The hot nozzle will cause the glue to immediately break down to a liquid state and the stylist can see the melted adhesive surrounding the natural hair. By rolling the warm adhesive between the thumb and forefinger it will form a solid connection that will hold for many months even though the person may have chemical services done, like relaxers, permanent waves and peroxide colors.

There is no additional expense involved and the stylist can use all of the left over pieces of hair from other jobs that were done earlier and there is no need for the added expense in purchasing a special tool to melt the adhesive.

This product ( pre glued hair ) does not represent the overall benefit of the hair stylist, retailer and the customers. It will cause some interest and excitement for some time, but in the end it will not be profitable to the parties involved and will never take over from the practical, economical and profitable techniques that are now in place for the adhesive hair extensions.


Title: buying commercial hair

There are three main questions that anyone purchasing hair should ask.


It is important that the hair that is purchased matches the wearer’s hair color. If the person that will wear the hair has plans to change their shade, then the hair should be selected after the color process has been done. Every professional stylist should own a color ring. This ring has swatches of hair in all of the available colors. It is numbered according to a code that is internationally recognized by every person in the hair trade throughout the world. This very essential tool is an absolute necessity for matching the client’s hair color or showing them hair color possibilities. The price of this very essential instrument is around $39.00.

Generally, the lower numbers represents the darker colors. Like number 1 is jet black. The color that is common only if a person is using tint or they are of Asian or American Indian descent. Other races usually have hair that is actually off black. This color is designated 1B on the color ring. Next is number 2. this represents the darkest brown. The succeeding numbers are in increments of two. For instance, 4 is a brown/red combination. At six the brown becomes lighter, 8, 10 and 12 are of a lighter brown and number 14 has a slightly reddish tinge that continues in paler brown up to 18 that has an ash shade that resembles the most common shade of the Caucasian race. Number 18 has a greenish hue that most people find unappealing. It is not a big seller.

The next shade is a warm, beige blonde that is designated number 22. this is an extremely popular color that is frequently mixed with 18 for a frosted look that is truly classical. The package that contains these two would be labeled 18/22. Number 24 is a lovely ash blonde. the reds began about 27. which is a reddish or strawberry blonde. Very popular, especially with people who are naturally brunettes that have lightened their hair to blonde. Usually the strong reds linger, no matter how much bleaching is done. Often Blacks and Latinos that wear their hair blonde will use number 27.  30 is an ash red and 33 is a bright red. 60 is white platinum. Not a major seller, so it is difficult to find it in longer lengths. The palest shade of blonde is number 613. It is frequently purchased in a mixture of 613/27 or 613/24. The fantasy colors ( like magenta, electric blue, green or orange ) usually have three numbers. Color combinations are often purchased already mixed, but it is easy for the stylist to custom mix any colors that will suit them or their clientele.


Commercial hair comes in lengths from 6 inches up to around 36 inches. Any pieces that exceeds 24 inches should be considered a special order and will be extremely expensive. The most common length of hair that clients order is 18 inches. This is the standard length for most people. traditionally only the black ladies will request shorter hair and that trend is rapidly changing.


There are an endless variety of textures that have been developed to accommodate every kind of hair is existence in the world. The basic straight hair is a big seller and will suit people whose hair can not stand perms or for people who prefer to wear their hair straight.

The next type is the large waves that are often called “Body” wave or “Natural” wave. This is currently the most popular of all the textures because the greatest amount of people in the United States are Caucasians with straight hair. They admire the wavy textures. This is also the texture that will give greater volume to fine, limp hair enhance the overall look of any hairdo. Since there are many people whose hair will not stand a permanent wave to give it additional body the wavy texture can be placed in the straight hair and by combing through a mousse or jell, it will take on the characteristics of the wavy texture of the commercial hair.

One of the most exciting  innovations of recent years is the vast varieties of “Yaki” or “Yaky” textures which has been developed to match the Afro American hair that has been chemically relaxed to allow it to be combed into the European inspired styles. There are so many different types of “Yaki” hair that it would take an entire article to touch upon a significant amount of them. It is one of the most clever manufacturing achievements in the commercial hair industry.

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